The observation tower serves as a good viewing point for raptors, parrots and swifts, as well as riverine species. Unfortunately there is very limited space, enough only for one telescope. All kinds of birds turned up here during my 7 weeks, including species like Amazonian Umbrellabird, Pied Puffbird and Opal-rumped Tanager. At dusk, a few Band-tailed Nighthawks can usually be seen hawking over the river, although they may be easier to watch from the porch in front of the restaurant.

At the river´s edge there are strings of trees and bushes, and grass, where various várzea and scrub species can be seen, including Speckled Chachalaca, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Straight-billed and occasionally Zimmer´s Woodcreeper, Barred Antshrike, Olive-faced Flatbill, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Várzea Schiffornis, Gray-chested Greenlet, Hooded Tanager and various Seedeaters. Many of the austral migrants also frequent these habitats, including Large and Small-billed Elaenias, Vermilion Flycatcher and Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher.

I spent quite a few afternoons and a couple of mornings birding these habitats, at the beginning from a canoe. I had reason to believe that one of the new species was to be found here, which turned out to be wrong. Instead I found several other interesting and surprising species, and I thoroughly enjoyed watching Nearctic waders at close range.

My surprise birds were Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant and Plain Tyrannulet, both seen very well and comprising extralimital records to what was previously known about their ranges. Among the species regularly found around the peninsula can be mentioned Muscovy Duck, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Great Black-Hawk, Gray-breasted Crake (frequently heard, but almost impossible to see), Purple Gallinule, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Pectoral and Solitary Sandpipers, Collared Plover, Wattled Jacana, Pale-vented Pigeon, Ruddy Ground-Dove, White-tipped Dove, Deville´s Parakeet, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Rusty-backed Spinetail, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Red-capped Cardinal, Yellow-hooded Blackbird and Giant Cowbird.

The birding around the peninsula is dynamic. After some heavy rains in late August and early September the peninsula was suddenly full of Greater Anis and Fork-tailed Flycatchers. The muddy shores were graced by single visits by Stilt and Buff-breasted Sandpipers, Greater Yellowlegs and Pied Lapwing.

a) The Yellow trail is the principal terra firme trail of Palmarí, traversing both flat areas and hills, with a few minor creek crossings and a stretch beside the Cachoeira stream. In other words it´s varied and also has a very good selection of terra firme birds. The trail is marked with meter signs.

Interesting birds can be found as soon as you step into the forest, but normally it´s rather quiet until you get to the stream at around 200 m. Spot-backed Antbird is regular here, and Hairy-crested Antbird, White-shouldered Antshrike and Red-crowned Ant-Tanager are all possible but highly irregular. At 300 m there is a tree fall where Black Antbird can be found. From here to 600 m watch and listen for Brownish Twistwing, Blue-crowned Manakin and Grayish Mourner. My only Ringed Antpipit was seen here.

At 600 m the trail starts climbing a hill, and it follows the ridge top until 1450 m. This is a very good stretch for species like Mouse-colored Antshrike, Sooty, Slate-colored, Yellow-browed and Scale-backed Antbirds, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, Thrush-like Schiffornis, Blue-backed Manakin, Citron-bellied Attila (esp. 600-650 m), White-crested Spadebill, Rufous-tailed Flatbill and Tawny-crowned Greenlet. A pair of Yellow-throated Woodpeckers had their nest at the Guayaba intersection (see species list). Canopy flocks might hold Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Eastern Woodhaunter, Rufous-tailed Xenops, Sclater´s and Chestnut-shouldered Antwrens, Eastern Sirystes and different tanagers. Rarer species might include Great Jacamar, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Black-banded Woodcreeper and Short-tailed Leaftosser.

At c.1500 m the trail goes downhill and then up and down a ridge. On the top you can take the left onto the “Tractor” trail (e). If continuing down from the ridge you pass a swampy area and soon reach the Cachoeira stream. The trail goes along here until c. 2800 m. Regular species here are i.e. Scale-breasted Woodpecker, Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper, Plain-winged and Spot-winged Antshrikes, Black, Southern Chestnut-tailed, Sooty and Spot-backed Antbirds, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Bright-rumped Attila, Screaming Piha, Wing-barred Piprites and White-crowned Manakin. Look out for Brown-banded Puffbird (high up!), Broad-billed Motmot, Ihering´s Antwren, Spot-winged Antbird, Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher, Yellow-throated Flycatcher (voice), Cinereous Mourner and Buff-rumped Warbler. I saw Starred Wood-Quail once, and there are older records of Bar-bellied Woodcreeper.

At the “cachoeira” the Yellow trail continues along the stream, while a left turn will take you on the Cachoeira trail to the lodge. After a few hundred meters you enter the plantations of Palmarí community, and you can continue through the village to complete the circuit or turn back and take the Cachoeira trail.

b) The Cachoeira trail is short, passing a steep ridge. It is good for motmots (in the beginning) and in the occasional flock, look especially for Ihering´s Antwren. It´s more convenient to take this trail to complete the Yellow trail, instead of going through the community.

c) The short Canopy trail leads to the Canopy platform (d), mostly gently uphill. This is a good trail for Southern Nightingale-Wren and Citron-bellied Attila.

d) I only “climbed” to the Canopy platform once. The platform has been built by and is visited only with the staff of Selvaventura, an independent partner to Palmarí lodge. The cost is 50.000.- colombian pesos or 50.- reales/person and climb. It´s a small platform but the view from here is very good. It´s a shame that I didn´t get up here more times. During my only visit I saw goodies like Black Hawk-Eagle, Brown-banded Puffbird, Purplish Jacamar, Black-bellied Cuckoo and Spangled Cotinga. A few species rarely seen from the ground are very likely regular from up here.

e) The “Tractor” trail was usually kind of quiet, but here I found good understorey flocks several times, with species like Ihering´s Antwren, Wing-barred Piprites and White-crowned Manakin. Chestnut-belted Gnateater was seen once.

Anywhere ahead of you a flock may turn up, which could hold species like Speckled Spinetail, Rufous-tailed and Slender-billed Xenopses, Ocellated, Striped and Plain-brown Woodcreepers, Sclater´s, Dot-winged and Chestnut-shouldered Antwrens, Gray-crowned Flatbill, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Long-billed Gnatwren, Lemon-chested Greenlet, Rufous-bellied and White-lored Euphonias, Paradise Tanager and White-winged Shrike-Tanager.

After about 700 meters you reach a stream crossing. Along this stream is a Gray Wren held territory. It was mostly heard near the end of the trail, but was seen close to here by the Fieldguides group. The final stretch of the trail goes at the edge of the terra firme, but it´s easy to walk beside the stream below if you want to. Johannes´s Tody-Tyrant and Amazonian Streaked-Antwren was often heard from here.

Many more or less rare species turned up along the trail during my many walks, most notably a Buckley´s Forest-Falcon which was heard calling one morning. Among others can be mentioned Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Gray-headed Kite (nicely perched!), Spix´s Guan, Black-bellied Thorntail, Blue-chinned Sapphire, Curve-billed Scythebill, Silvered Antbird, Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher (heard), Amazonian Umbrellabird, Lawrence´s Thrush, Guira Tanager and Band-tailed Oropendola.

Birds are much the same as along the várzea trail and the peninsula, but here the possibilities are much better to see waterbound species like Green and Pygmy Kingfishers, Band-tailed Antbird, Amazonian Streaked and Leaden Antwrens or an occasional Black-collared Hawk. Flocks here may include Ocellated, Striped and Zimmer´s Woodcreepers, Slender-billed Xenops, Amazonian Antshrike, Wire-tailed Manakin and White-vented Euphonia. The Gray Wren holding territory along the Várzea trail could be heard from here as well, and my only Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle was seen briefly overhead.

Starting at the end of the Várzea trail, you first enter transitional forest which can be quite wet after heavy rains. After a few hundred meters the trail starts to climb gently up a slope until it levels out at c. 1000 meters. At 2000 meters the trail climbs up to the top of a ridge and then down at 2800 meters to a marshy, low-lying area with numerous stream crossings. A ridge is crossed at 3900 m, and at 4236 meters the trail end up with the Yellow trail (800 m).

The first 1.5 kilometers can be quite birdy. There are often flocks around, and this was one of the few places where I had good army ant swarms. Add to this a good selection of skulkers, and you´ve got a really good mix of species. Regular species here includes White-throated Tinamou, White-fronted Nunbird, Golden-collared Toucanet, Yellow-throated, Golden-green and Red-necked Woodpeckers, Mouse-colored Antshrike, White-throated, Scale-backed and Hairy-crested Antbirds, Black-faced Antthrush, Thrush-like Antpitta, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Rufous-tailed Flatbill, Brownish Twistwing, Black-capped and Pink-throated Becards, White-crowned and Red-headed Manakins, Purple-necked Fruitcrow, White-necked Thrush and Fulvous-crested Tanager. Among the many species seen occasionally can be mentioned Lined Forest-Falcon, Spix´s Guan, Starred Wood-Quail, Black-throated Hermit, Rufous-necked Puffbird, Paradise Jacamar, Short-billed Leaftosser, Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper, McConnell´s Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody-Tyrant, White-crested Spadebill and Citron-bellied Attila.

Among the birds that I found between 1500 and 2100 m the Reddish-winged Bare-eye is outstanding, but worth to mention are also Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner, Eastern Woodhaunter, Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper, Slate-colored and Black-faced Antbirds, Plain-throated Antwren and Curl-crested Aracari. Every time I walked on the ridge (2100-2800 m) it was late morning and more or less quiet except for some occasional small flock.

The marshy/streamy area between 2900-3700 m hold many good species and very nice canopy flocks. Birds to look for here are Little Tinamou, Pale-tailed Barbthroat, Rufous-tailed Xenops, Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner, Spot-throated and Long-tailed Woodcreepers, Black Bushbird, Sclater´s and Chestnut-shouldered Antwrens, Spot-winged and Sooty Antbirds, Ash-throated Gnateater, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo and various Tanagers. Along the few hundred meters left before the Guayaba reaches the Yellow trail, I found goodies as Purplish Jacamar, Short-billed Leaftosser and Undulated Antshrike on single occasions.

As one might guess from the name I´ve given the trail, I had Black Bushbird here, a pair, in an area of tall heliconias. I wouldn´t be surprised if there are several pairs along the trail, because there is a lot of suitable habitat. Good for Spot-backed, Sooty and White-throated Antbirds. Other species of note were Lined Forest-Falcon (heard), Gould´s Jewelfront, Spotted Puffbird and Cinereous Mourner.

Among the species I recorded here can be mentioned Lined Forest-Falcon, Black-bellied Cuckoo, Blue-cheeked Jacamar, Rufous-necked Puffbird, Curl-crested Aracari, Golden-collared Toucanet, Red-necked Woodpecker, Black-tailed Leaftosser, Strong-billed and Lineated Woodcreepers, Slate-colored Antbird, White-necked Thrush and Yellow-crested Tanager.

Among the specialties here can be mentioned Blue-crowned Trogon, Blue-cheeked and Paradise Jacamars, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, Rufous-tailed Antwren, Dot-backed Antbird, Black-spotted Bare-eye,Yellow-crowned Elaenia, Johannes´s and Snethlage´s Tody-Tyrants, Euler´s and Dusky-chested Flycatchers, Wire-tailed Manakin, Purple-necked Fruitcrow, Gray Wren, Hauxwell´s Thrush, Gray-headed Tanager and Fulvous-crested Tanager. Río Suno Antwren and Black-tailed Antbird should be looked for.

Several excellent species were recorded, including Slate-colored Hawk, Red-throated Caracara, Band-tailed Nighthawk (40+!) Blue-chinned Sapphire, Green-and-rufous Kingfisher, Pied Puffbird, Silvered and Band-tailed Antbirds, Amazonian Black-Tyrant, Johannes´s and Snethlage´s Tody-Tyrants, Cinereous Becard and Amazonian Umbrella-bird (6 males!). The first records of Buckley´s Forest-Falcon and White-chested Swift for Brazil were made in this area (and I found them again at different places!).

Among the species that I recorded can be mentioned Green Ibis, Slate-colored Hawk, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Spotted Puffbird, Yellow-throated Woodpecker, White-shouldered, Plumbeous and Silvered Antbirds, Snethlage´s Tody-Tyrant, Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher, Cinnamon Attila, Hauxwell´s Thrush and White-shouldered Tanager. Río Suno Antwren and Black-tailed Antbird are both very likely to occur here.

Among the many specialties of the area can be mentioned Plumbeous Kite (sometimes in huge flocks!), Tui Parakeet, Reddish Hermit, White-chinned Sapphire, Collared Trogon, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Spotted Puffbird, Rufous-capped Nunlet, Scarlet-crowned and Lemon-throated Barbets, Plain-crowned, Speckled and Rusty-backed Spinetails, Ocellated, Striped and Zimmer´s Woodcreepers, Great, Barred and Amazonian Antshrikes, White-browed, Black-throated and Plumbeous Antbirds, Yellow-crowned Elaenia, Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher, Black-tailed Tityra, Gray-chested Greenlet, Tropical Gnatcatcher and White-shouldered Tanager. Purple-throated Cotinga was seen by Fieldguides and both Wattled Curassow and Harpy Eagle have been seen by the local guides.